By Tayler Beckner, Licensed Medical Aesthetician — Southlake Aesthetics
Once a client has the fundamentals in place — cleanser, vitamin C, sunscreen, moisturizer — the natural next question is what to add for real anti-aging results.
Two categories dominate that conversation: retinoids and growth factors. Both are legitimately effective. They work through completely different mechanisms, and the right choice depends on your skin, your tolerance, and how much adjustment you're willing to go through.
How retinoids work
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives. They accelerate cell turnover — essentially telling your skin to shed old cells and produce new ones faster — and stimulate collagen production over time.
The clinical evidence is substantial. Retinoids remain the most-studied topical anti-aging category available.
What they improve: fine lines and wrinkles, uneven texture, enlarged pores, acne, and discoloration.
The tradeoff: there's an adjustment period. Expect dryness, flaking, and some sensitivity for the first 2-6 weeks — what's commonly called "retinization." Some people have a harder time with it than others.
Best for: people whose primary concerns are texture, lines, and acne, and who can tolerate an adjustment period.
How growth factors work
Growth factors are proteins that signal your skin cells to repair and regenerate. Rather than forcing turnover, they support your skin's own repair processes — which means they work with your barrier instead of temporarily compromising it.
What they improve: firmness, elasticity, expression lines, and overall skin quality — the "my skin looks healthy" quality that's hard to name but easy to see.
The tradeoff: generally slower to show dramatic results than retinoids, and typically more expensive per ounce.
Best for: sensitive skin, people who couldn't tolerate retinol, post-procedure recovery, and anyone prioritizing firmness over texture.
How I actually choose
Start with a retinoid if:
- Your skin tolerates actives well
- Texture, pores, or acne are your main concerns
- You want the most-researched option available
- You can commit through the adjustment period
Start with growth factors if:
- Your skin is sensitive or reactive
- You've tried retinol and couldn't tolerate it
- Firmness and elasticity matter more to you than texture
- You're recovering from a procedure and need something gentle
- You're pregnant or nursing (retinoids are contraindicated — confirm with your physician)
Can you use both?
Yes — and for many clients, that combination is ideal. They work through different pathways, so the benefits complement rather than duplicate.
How I sequence it:
- Alternate nights. Retinoid one evening, growth factor the next. Simplest approach and easiest on your barrier.
- Growth factor AM, retinoid PM. Works if your skin is well-adjusted to retinol.
- Layer on the same night. Growth factor first, retinoid after — only for well-conditioned skin.
Don't start both at once. Introduce one, give it 6-8 weeks, then add the second if your skin is handling it well.
Starting retinol without wrecking your skin
If you go the retinoid route, the introduction protocol matters enormously. Most people who "can't tolerate retinol" simply started too aggressively.
- Weeks 1-2: Apply twice a week, at night only. Pea-sized amount for your entire face.
- Weeks 3-4: Increase to every other night if your skin is comfortable.
- Week 5+: Move toward nightly as tolerated. Some people do best staying at 4-5 nights a week permanently — that's fine.
The buffering technique: apply moisturizer first, then your retinoid on top. This slows absorption and dramatically reduces irritation while you adjust. Once you're conditioned you can switch to retinoid first.
Non-negotiable: daily sunscreen. Retinoids increase photosensitivity, and sun exposure will undo the collagen benefit you're working for.
What to expect, honestly
Neither of these is a quick fix, and anyone telling you otherwise is selling something.
- Weeks 1-4: Adjustment. Possibly worse before better with retinoids.
- Weeks 4-8: Texture and tone start improving.
- Weeks 8-12: Visible improvement in fine lines and clarity.
- Months 3-6: Collagen changes become apparent — this is the real payoff.
- Ongoing: Continued use maintains and builds on results. Stopping means gradual reversal.
The single biggest predictor of results isn't which product you choose. It's whether you use it consistently for six months.
Not sure which is right for you?
This is exactly the kind of decision worth talking through. Your skin type, history with actives, sensitivity, and goals all factor in — and there's no universally correct answer.
Book a free online consultation and I'll help you pick the right starting point and build an introduction plan that won't leave you irritated and discouraged three weeks in.
Tayler Beckner is a Licensed Medical Aesthetician and Licensed Laser Hair Removal Technician practicing in Southlake, Texas. Retinoids are not recommended during pregnancy or nursing — consult your physician.
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